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Joe/Jean European trip 2014

Thursday the 24th of July 2014 we had to pass up an invitation to attend Donna our next door neighbours daughter wedding as we had planned to leave that day to tour Europe in our Motorhome.

We headed off on Thursday the 24th of July 2014 from Rosslare to Cherbourg with a rough plan to travel the following route following:
Cherbourg France -Ghent Belgium-Delph Holland-Amsterdam-Hannover Germany-Berlin-Poznan Poland-Cracow-Zakopane-Bratislava Slovakia-Budapest Hungry-Istra Croatia-Bled Slovenia- Vienna Austria- Nurenberg Germany-Frankfert-Leige Belgium onwards to Cherbourg and home
Ferry crossing.
Travelled with Celtic Link now owned by Stena Line very smooth crossing except for when we checked in for our cabin. When booking the only two berth available were disability cabins so I booked one. When Jean was checking in for the key of our cabin he attendant leaned out through the reception counter glass and said do you really need a disability berth. Jean being cute said I must call Joe. I went over to the counter and he repeated what he said about the need for a disability berth. Worrying in case we wouldn’t have a berth I put one hand on Jean’s thigh and the other under the counter and said of course I need the berth this woman has an artificial leg tapping Jeans thigh with one hand and tapping under the counter with the other hand. Of course sir said the attendant handing over the key.

The facilities on the ferry weren’t as good as the Irish ferries but the entertainment was very good and the food was excellent and much cheaper. We arrived into Cherbourg at 4.30pm and made some headway towards Amiens in France. Found a free campsite in a lovely village. Tried to get a drink or takeaway around 8.30pm. Not a hope everyplace was closed except for a pizza takeaway which took 40 mins to cook a pizza. Had a meal and relaxed for the evening.

Sat 26th July

headed towards Ghent and arrived at lunch time to our campsite.

Found a free campsite and stayed two nights. We were fortunate that the annual music festival was in full swing locals said the last two days/nights would keep going until 10.00am. This was proved on our first visit to the city when a local guy gave us some directions and said he was heading home for some sleep and This was at 10.30am. Every street had a stage set up for musicians and we had some great entertainment from a jazz band with some wonderful dancers. Ghent is very attractive with lovely canals cafe and shops we visited the Belfry for a view of the City. Also saw the 1432 world famous painting of the adoration of the mystic lamb by Jan van Eyck followed this with an Omellette for lunch. After some more rambling stopped for baked apple tart, pancakes and coffee yummy. Not long after a sudden thunderstorm hit the City and then we realised we had left the three skylights open in the camper. headed back to campsite and were happy only slight dampness on floor but also discovered the front tyrewas almost flat. Decided to let it be until the next day.

Monday 29th July rain rain rain

Woke to torrential rain and a flat tyre sat it out until the rain stopped and headed for a garage after the local police station gave us some advice. By 10.30am we were heading out of Belgium and into Holland hoping to stay in Delft. Had to pass Rotterdam on the way and the volume of traffic was incredible with up to 10 lanes converging into 4 lanes in places. It seemed every truck in Europe was on the road.

When we reached the tunnel passing Rotherham we were stuck in traffic for one hour with traffic converging from all sides. Eventually found a lovely campsite on a farm outside Delft with fresh home-made cakes, bread and jam.

Delft is a lovely city with quaint canals and floating restaurants. A huge square which has a basilica at one end where many state funerals took place is the main setting and the belfry which has 375 steps gives a wonderful view of the city. The inside of the Cathedral has a huge underground vaults were many state figures were buried. Video clips are played for funerals 1944 to 2008 of the procession to the vaults had lunch and the it was onwards to Amsterdam and the coffee shops I can smell the weed already.

Chilling out in Amsterdam

Located a campsite €27.50 dear but well equipped with restaurant and shop and more important only two minutes from Metro. Decided to have dinner and head into Amsterdam. Nothing had changed from our last visit in 2002 bicycles everywhere. thronged with people of all nationalities all rushing nowhere. Had a coffee (nod nod wink wink) and after some rambling found an Guinness pub relaxed and headed back in the metro.

Wed 30th The 31st

Back into Amsterdam and a visit to the museum which had a host of wonderful paintings from Van Gogh, to Rembrant.

the paintings included the famous Milkmaid, Battle of Waterloo, Changing of the guard. You would need 3 days to appreciate the works on display. The museum had a lovely shop and café which we indulged in. met some lovely people from San Diego and naturally they had Irish ancestors, later we headed for a lovely park with lakes around every winding path. Hugely popular with the tourists. There is a lovely small island on one lake with tons of flowers on display and for sale we stopped for a snack and watched the world go by bought some nick nacks on the way back.

Fri 1st Aug Hung over in Hannover

Journeyed on to Hannover and got delayed for 90 mins due to crash. Located a Stell Platz (free campsite) near a tennis club and swimming complex. Headed into city by train (15 mins) met a chap fro Ethopia just after leaving hospital he gave us some advice as we chatted along the journey. He had a stroke previously and had a poor heart condition it made him realise life can be short and to prioritise what is important. Visited the Martin Luther church and the Neues Rathaus which you travel to the top 100metres in a curved lift it gives splendid views of the city. We met a father and daughter from Poland who were visiting and managed to come across them at least four more times uring our visit to the City. the Opera House, Market place and Historical museums are also some of it’s main attraction. The highlight is the Grosser Garten which is peppered with statues ,fountains, and a colourfully tiled grotto and the Gross Fontane (Great Fountain) the tallest in Europe jets water up to 80 metres high. open food stalls with outside dining area and Live music from country to pop saw us unable to avoid the temptation so enjoyed some food/beer in town and was fuzzy in the morning

The following morning availed of the local with a fantastic lay-out swimming pool €3 for three hours

Sat 2nd Aug Beer in Berlin

up early and off on our way to berlin. Found campsite and decided to stay two nights.

Headed for city centre at 8pm and found a lovely square with tables chairs and great selection of food. had a few drinks (had to be beer) and enjoyed the outdoor music

Sun 3rd Aug 2014 More beer in Berlin

Headed into city at 10.am changed train and headed for the famous checkpoint Charlie packed with tourists. Visited the remains of the berlin Wall. next it was off to see the Branderburger Tor. It’s the branderburg gate not a burger with topping from there it was a visit to the Berliner Dom and attend mass (Berlin Cathedral) it is used as a house of worship, museum and concert hall. The view from the dome at the top takes you breath away but the 267 steps getting there also does. After that it was time for cocktail or two and back to the campsite. Great day!!

Mon 4th Aug Time to help the Polish economy

Today we were leaving Germany and heading to Poland and Poznan. Crossed into Poland at 11.45am same time as Hitler invaded Poland (Just joking) After crossing the border the motorway was enclosed by forest for the first 110 kilometres. Arrived at our campsite which was top class. it was situated on the banks of lake Malta and consisted of hotel rooms, tent area, motorhomes/caravans, restaurant and tv rooms. 100 metres away was the end of the lake which had stands at each side of the lake which held up to 4000 people. The lake had various lanes for regattas and other water sports and also had outdoor ten pin bowling and Boules (French our door bowls on sand).

Settled down for an evening meal with Vino and plan the next few days activities.

Tue 5th Aug 2014 Head butted by a goat

Headed into Poznan by tram and strolled around town. some old fashioned shops in the centre, visited the town hall museum some great history and historical objects going back to the 15th century. Every midday two mechanical metal goats above the clock butt their horns together 12 times renacting a centuries old legend. The legend goes that a cook while preparing a banquet for Voivode (warlord) and other dignitaries had burnt a roast deer, attempted to replace it with two goats stolen from a nearby meadow. The goats escaped and ran up the town hall tower and began to butt each other (according to some this drew attention to a fire which could have done some significant damage) because of the entertainment provided the Voivode (warlord) pardoned both the cook and the goats, and ordered that two mechanical goats be incorporated in to the new clock being made for the building. As Ripley would say “believe it or believe it not”

While I was waiting for a second goat this chap said he would help me out

Next stop was the Cathedral which served as a site for Christian worship in 906 which was a long time ago. After all that it’s time for coffee and cheese cake.

Wed 6th Aug 2014 Sink or swim

First stop was the Malta Thermy which was a swimming complex but not as we know it. After changing and leaving the changing room you were met by a 50 metre swimming pool withy spectator seating for 2000 people not wanting to show the other swimmers up I turned left and enter another swimming area which consisted of a large circular pool with several exits one led out to an outside swimming area. Also in the inside they had four small pools to cater for every age of child from the toddler upwards, one pool had a ship in it for kids to climb on and another had a artificial rock climbing wall coming out of the water. Outside there were four other pools for various abilities including two water slides one had aqua aerobics at which Jean was a credit to the Irish. Beneath the complex completed in Egyptian décor were various treatment rooms, hot tubs, Jacuzzi, plunger pools. hot stones and 360 degree showers. All in all a wonderful experience.

After all that it was time for lunch and off to the botanical gardens where we chilled out for the afternoon.

Well we have been in France, Belgium, Holland, Germany and now Poland and the following has become noticeable.

Roads

Except for the main road to Cork-Dublin each country has a better road infrastructure than us.

Tolls

France outrageous, Belgium fair, Poland only once and cheap, Germany no charges

Eating out

Each country is cheaper than Ireland but Poland cheapest so far

Shopping provisions

All countries cheaper than Ireland but Poland as follows: 1 steak, 2 pork chops, 4 slices of turkey, 4 slices ham all for equivalent of €5.20

Fuel

Diesel from €1.50 a litre to €1.20 Petrol from €1.35 to €1.80

Holland were the dearest and Poland the cheapest.

Thu 7th Aug from Spa day to disaster day

Decided to head for famous Spa town Lodz (note the name) took us slightly towards our next main stop Cracow. About one hour 20 mins into our journey I noticed the roads were all country roads a bit like going to Kinsale, decided to check Sat nav and realised I had entered Ludz instead of Lodz and we were heading in the opposite direction. After a big smile from Jean (in ur dreams) we headed on a new bearing still driving country roads decided to fill up with diesel when a customer pointed out a had a soft tyre, the one I previously had fixed. Tried to find out where the nearest repair shop was but the guy kept gibbering on ( he hadn’t a clue)drove back the road two miles and spotted a tyre repair off the road. Tyre fixed on the road again for another hour a refreshment break. Decided to tell Jean I am driving all the way to Cracow and we will not arrive until around 7.00pm she was thrilled (in ur dreams again) beating down the road and what next pouring rain and trucks everywhere as we were back on the motorway. Hit Cracow at 6.45pm and campsite Clepartia and a well earned rest

All smiles again

Fri 8th Aug 2014 we entered the dragon

Up early and decided to move campsite and relocated at camping Smok (Dragon) okay campsite but not great. Got bus to Cracow and visited some lovely churches, climbed old old walls of the city and walked ar0und them. had dinner of salmon and fillet mognon washed down with a bottle of merlot. After that we were entertained by some traditional music and dancers and that finished off the day nicely.

Sat 9th Aug

Departed from Smok and booked into camping Korona a family run affair. It had a nice layout with very helpful staff. Chilled out for the day.

Jews Quarters

Sun 10th Turkish delight

Went to mass in Cracow and followed that with lunch in a Turkish restaurant with was a delight. later visited castle which was very impressive and the Jewish quarters. Very hot 30 degrees decided to relax outdoors with a drink and watch the world pass us by.

Cracow house drawn carriage tours are very popular the carrigages, horses and the riders are made up in splendid fashion and would remind you of the British Royal parades.

Mon 11th Aug No shortage of salt.

Drove to see the famous salt mine and we weren’t disappointed the mine shere have been worked for over 900 years and are still being worked though on a limited scale. In the past the salt mined here accounted for one third of the economy and salt in the past was the equivilant to mining oil today. The mine has 2ooKm of passages and over 2000 caverns, on the tour you travel down 400 feet. There are giant caverns, underground lakes, chapels with sculptures and rich ornamentation cut into the salt rock. it has three cahpels and a cathedral carved out out of the salt rock. The use of chandeliers makes perfect setting.

After that great tour we decided to head south to the tourist mad Zakopane as we were there previously on a skiing holiday we were curious to see it in the summer. The trip which we thought would take 1hour 40 minutes took over 3hours as we were travelling over the mountain passes and through various villages and towns the delay was frustrating. Eventually got to Zakopane and located a campsite which was jammed. met a nice English couple who are travelling in their motorhome since may and will return home in October. Home is Spain where they retired to some years ago. They travel around Europe in their motorhome each summer and return to Spain in the autumn where the weather is still warm. “What a life”. Found a spot to park which wasn’t the best and to cap it all severe thunder and lighting completed our day and it continued into the night. had a meal in the camper and relaxed for the night

Tue12th Aug 2014 On top of the world

Woke up to a bright morning and headed for the Funicular which brought us to the top of the mountain. The scenery was lovely but some cloud blew in after two hours. Strolled around the mountain top which was alive with people and had a snack before heading down to the town centre. The town centre is mainly one long pedestrian street which is constantly alive with people. restaurants, shops and market places dominate and leather goods, jackets, slippers, handbags. are all on display. Saw two brave girls bungee jump from the top of a crane it really looked scary. Went to a restaurant we used when on the last visit and had a gorgeous meal proceeded by a hot wine the favourite winter drink when skiing.

Views from mountain top

Views from the mountain

Bungee jump hope he is wearing

Bicycle clips

Save the legs ride a carriage A cuppa to warm the body on the mountain

Great seeing Zakopane again and here’s to the next time. We decided to travel back to Cracow and back to camping Korona traffic again very slow on return journey. Stayed at campsite for the night again some thunder, lightining and rain during the night.

Thu 14th Aug Parting of the ways

Today we decided to part Jean headed for some museums and churches and I headed Schindler’s factory museum site of the film Schindler’s List starring Liam Neeson. The factory is used as a museum depicting the history of the Nazi invasion and the atrocities and destruction inflicted on the people of Cracow. The factory produced enamel pots and saucepans for the war effort. Both the polish and Jewish poles worked in the factory and the Jews were enclosed in a camp at the rear of the factory guarded by Nazis. Many of the jews asked to be paid in saucepans as they could get more money for them in the market than they were being paid. met. Overall the Factory was worth the visit.

To be continued!!!!!!!

Fri 15 Aug 2014 The Ukelele boy

Funny incident: the background to the story is that a group of teenagers camping in our vicinity had a bit of a sing song the night before with one of them a beginner trying to play along with the Ukelele. The following morning while we are having breafkfast outdoors when the teenager carrying the Ukelele( egged on by his friends to apologise) called to the guy with the caravan across from us and said in broken English sorry must say sorry He the lifted up the ukulele and to the air of “thank you for the music ” he proceded to play badly in staccato style the song in the following words

Sorry for the music the songs we song badly we hope the didn’t annoy you. Sorry for the music we wont do it again. With that the owner of the caravan wituout saying a word went back into his caravan. During all this his buddies were falling on their asses laughing.

Today we went to visit a Benectine Monastery in the country today was one of the rare days it is open to the public as it was a Church Holiday. Got a tour of the monastery and a great presentation from one of the nuns only problem it was all in German. Played some pool jean hasn’t lost her touch.

Sat 16th Aug D Day

Today unfortunately there are three unfortunate happenings. First we just cooked the last of the Denny sausages, two we are down to the last Barry’s tea bags and three Jean is flying back to Ireland from Cracow. I can manage without two of them but what will I do without ~~Jean~~ Barry;s tea. Dropped Jean off in the City for the bus to the airport I’ll miss he loads.

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I was time for me and Nellie to leave the campsite and head for Slovakia. Did I tell you about Nellie she has been with me from the start. She is a bit on the small size but is very intelligent and has a lovely voice She is of course Nellie the navigator the campers GPS sat Nav. Anyway headed for Slovakia with a route to go to Budpest. Crossed over the border through the Tatra mountains which slowed down progress. Found a Lidl shop and stocked up cheaper than Ireland.

Tatra mountains

Things were looking good decided to travel for 90 minutes before looking for campsite.

Will Joe bare all for his country

Did a search for campsites on sat nav and two campsites were displayed headed for the first one and discovered it was closed. Entered the co-ordinates for the second campsite which said it was 35km away but gave a travelling time of 80 mins. As I departed I felt a little uneasy with the time frame and expected to be travelling country roads. Yep it certainly was country roads and then they got narrower and the last three km were just the width of the camper. Felt I should turn back but I had gone to far and was so near, eventually Sat nav said I was there and I spotted a signpost on the right pointing in to a gravel roadway/track. I dag travelled 10 metres when I realised I wasn’t in just any old campsite. it was a nudist campsite!! Now the question was do I join the flower picking, weed smelling nudists with all the dangling bits or do I head for the road and to where next !

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Being a good Christian boy I quickly did a three point turn and was about to accelerate when this guy came out of reception waving to me and it wasn’t just his hands that were waving, foot down and away you go Joe. After that experience I decided to set the sat nav for Budapest which was a long drive and time moving on. Got to Budapest at 7.30pm and the campsite was full. After a bit of Irish charm they let me in to part temporary until the morning now it was time for a stiff drink. Slovakia travelling through was very pretty with tree covered rolling hills and quaint little towns also seemed very clean.

Sun 17th Aug. River Cruise by night

Relocated to a nicer spot in the campsite and decided to stay four nights as I was looking forward to seeing Budapest.

Buda pest was originally two cities called you guessed it Buda and Pest. Pest is separated from Buda by the Danube, They united in 1873 to become Budapest. The City attracts 4.3 million visitors a year.

Got the Metro which was only 5 minutes away into City centre which took 20 minutes then I headed to the castle area and was fortunate a folk festival was in progress with outdoor music and dance the castle medieval streets were packed with high quality stalls with every kind of arts and crafts you could think of. A lot of the crafts people were working live on their wares. It was great to see some of the old style children’s games still being made. had a snack and headed back to campsite as I had booked a river cruise for 9.00pm. The cruise which included wine was great value and the sights by night from the Danube was wonderful with views of the castle, parliament building, the liberty monument and the various bridges light up in different colours.

Mon 18th Aug Hop on Hop off

Got a two day hop on hop off bus ticket €18 decided to do the complete tour and then pick the ones I wanted to see.

headed for heroes square with it’s really impressive monuments. Behind the square is a lovely park with a lake and water sports facilities. Also it the park is a lovely castle and Zoo. Visited St Stephens Basilicain the Castle area which has St Stephens mummified hand on display . Gillert Hill which gives a commanding view of the Danube and City is well worth the walk. Liberty Monument stand atop liberty hill, a lady with a palm frond proclaiming liberty throughout the city. Some 14 metres high she was raised in 1947 in tribute to the soviet soldiers that died liberating Budapest in 1945.

The mummified hand of St Stephen

Visited the Fisherman’s Bastion near Mathias Church. It was bilt as a viewing platform commerating the fishermen who it was said helped defend this particular area during the war. The House of terror has a good historic feel to how the germans put in place their own people to govern Hungry and got the locals to assist in terrorising the population and made the Jews wear stars to identify them. The museum was the building the Germans intelligence branch used to torture and kill hundreds of Hungarians. The cells are still preserved deep under the building and make grim viewing.

Fisherman’s Bastion View from the Palace

One of the Four lions (the lion is the one on the right) which two are mounted at each end of the chain bridge they were carved by sculptor Janos Marschalko and the story goes the day they were finally mounted on the bridge amid all the pomp and ceremony one observant fellow casually remarked that the lions have no tongues at which point Janos was thrown into the Danube.

The New York café in Budapest is a must place to go to. It is a renowned place for one to dine or sip on a latte and admire the décor. The ceiling is adorned with Frescoes, venetian chandelier’s produce a magical light. Entering the café is like stepping back in time. The layout and standard of service is excellent and the menu is mouth watering. I certainly enjoyed my fine dining and regard it as the place to be seen. Better still the prices were reasonable

Well Budapest has been great four days of great weather and wonderful sightseeing.

Wed 20th Aug 2014 The Cat and the Rabbit

Time to move on towards Vienna, found a little camping place 20 km from Vienna with a view to moving into a closer base in the morning. Settling down to make the dinner when I noticed some movement out the window and had a look and saw something I never saw before. A black and white was running after a rabbit. The rabbit would stop every few yards and then the cat would stop and move forward slowly towards the rabbit. The rabbit would run again and the whole process began all over again all around the camper. I eventually went out and distracted the cat away. That’s a good way of putting it !

Thu 24 Aug Vienna anyone for a waltz

Located a Stell Platz next to Metro €19 a night. The showers a toilets were the best I have seen spotless and powerfull jet of water even the wash basins had liquid soap. in Ireland they wont even have toilet paper. Each person had a code for the showers and toilet. Headed into City centre took 25 minutes by metro had to make one line change.

Got out a Stephans Platz which is the hub of things. The first thing you see is of course St Stephens Cathedral which is very impressive. the next thing you notice is lots of people in period costume trying to sell you tickets for Opera’s and shows.

Vienna Is lovely with many character buildings, the city seems to be full of theatre’s and is thronged with people. The main street from Stephen’s square is full of high street shops are they seem to be very busy. lots of tourists seem to be shopping while in Budapest there was a different atmosphere with people in sightseeing and merriment mood. I visited St Stephens Cathedral, Rathauspark with its fountains, statues, and exotic trees, the Vienna State Opera, Musikverein home of the Vienna Philharmonic, golden Johann Strauss monument. Am Hof which where excavation works in the 1960 unearthed the remains of a roman settlement and Judenplatz with it’s holocaust memorial.

The guys are playing a shovel and a tennis racket, they had a great sound

Still it is a place you have to see.

Sat 23rd Aug I hope the vertigo stays away

Left Venice and headed for Hallstatt heading in the direction for Numerbourg. With glassy green water and swans in abundance Hallstatt is like a postcard scene with towering mountains on each side. Hallstatt star sight is the “man in salt” a fully preserved body of a prehistoric miner which was found in 1734. A tour revolves around his fate with an underground railway to an illuminated subterranean salt lake fascinating. Not far from Hallstatt is a cable car which take you up the mountain to caves that are millions of years old and extend into the mountains for 80km. There you will aslo find the freaky five fingers viewing post. Behind the parish church is the Beinhaus which contains rows of stacked skulls. The old Celtic pagan custom of massed burial has been practiced here since 1600 (mainly due to lack of burial space.

Next stop Nuremburg and found a free campsite and settled down as it was getting late.

Sun 24th Aug Join the sing along

Discovered there was a lovely walk by the river all the way into Nuremburg, very scenic took 3o mins to get to the centre. I was amazed how they make use of their facilities or lack of facilities. They had built a man made beach at the edge od the river and sectioned off some of the river for swimming. The also installed table tennis, Basketball nets, small football pitch and dining areas with weather protection.

Nuremburg woos visitors with it’s restored Medieval castle, they provide traditional dishes of sizzling Nurnberger Bratwirste (finger size sausages) and Lebkuchen large, soft gingerbread cookies, finger licking good. Nuremberg played a major role during the Nazi years and later during the war crimes trials. The Museum chronicles the history of the Castle, you can also visit the royal living quarters, the imperial and knights hall and the Romanesque twin chapel.

The gargoyle adorned fountain is located in the main square and it is said if you touch the gold ring in the wrought iron gate you will have good luck.

Can’t imagine this fountain in the Grand Parade

The gargoyle adorned fountain is in the main square and touch the golden ring on the wrought iron gate for luck.

The Nazis were tried for war crimes Schwurgerichtssaal 600 (court room 600) of what is Nuremburg’s regional courthouse. The proceedings became known as the Nuremburg trials and were held by the allies in the city for symbolic reasons. 24 were accused and 19 convicted and sentenced, many to death by hanging. Hermann Goring who was a field marshall cheated death by taking a cyanide capsule in his cell hours before his scheduled execution. The courthouse (if not in use) is available for viewing.

Heading back to the campsite I heard some loud music and then some loud singing are decided to follow the sound and just in from the river walk was a large marquee and sound of music and the smell of food was pulling me like a magnet. The marquee was packed and the beer was flowing in litre glasses and the music was great some of the songs included Wooden Heart (Elvis), Que Sara Sara, Poloma Blanca, Irene goodnight Irene. The crown seem to know the words in Englisn and German, well if you cant beat them join them……….. Some time later I ~~walked~~ staggered back to the campsite and had a deserved rest

The original plan was to go down to Croatia and then back up to Slovenia but distractions saw an alter in the plan. Now I had completed my visit to Nuremberg I decided to head to Belgium and in particular to the sights of the first world war and in particular the battle of the Somme.

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european tour 2014

The dream continues